You should read ALL of these instructions BEFORE starting.
Note: This product is not intended to be used with or over any type of oil-based products
Note: This product is not intended for outdoor use
Note: All epoxy has natural color variation / tint. The color of the surface the epoxy is applied to may minimize or accentuate the tint. White surfaces are always the most challenging to work with in regards to accentuating epoxy tint.
Before You Begin
Coverage: We offer a coverage calculator so you can calculate how much epoxy you will need by entering the square footage of your table. *Click to use the calculator
Working conditions / Temperature: Product working temperature is 75- 85F. The product must be acclimated to, mixed at, and cured for 72 hours at 75-85F THIS IS A REQUIREMENT. If the product becomes cold you can place the jugs in warm water to acclimate them to the proper temperature. Climate controlled conditions are required to properly work with epoxy. This may mean heat or air conditioning depending on your location.
Safety: This product has no VOCs. We recommend using this product in a well-ventilated area. We recommend protective eye-wear and gloves when working with the product. Some people may be more sensitive to epoxy than others. If you wish to wear a ventilator when using the product please do so. If you get epoxy on your skin, wash it with soap and warm water. If the epoxy comes in contact with your eyes, do not rub your eyes and flush with water for 15 minutes repeatedly. If irritation persists, seek medical attention immediately. Please contact us for a Materials Safety Data Sheet. (MSDS)
Surface Preparation: The project surface should be free of any dirt, dust, oils, or grease. Denatured alcohol or acetone can be used to clean the surface with a lint free rag. Your surface should be level so the epoxy can self-level. The room you are working in should be clean, dry, dust and insect-free. Settling dust can cause imperfections on the surface of the epoxy as it is curing.
Measuring and Mixing
Measuring: It is crucial that the product is measured accurately and mixed thoroughly. Measure 1-part RESIN to 1-part HARDENER by liquid volume (not weight) . Do NOT vary this ratio.
NOTE: We do not recommend mixing a combined total of more than 1 gallon at a time.
Mixing: Add Hardener then Resin to a mixing container with about 30% greater capacity than the amount of product you are mixing.
The goal of mixing is a thorough incorporation of the two parts. It helps some people to think of a cake batter mix. We want a uniform consistency after mixing. This requires scraping the container during mixing.
Mix with a flat bottom stir stick or silicon spatula being sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the container multiple times as you mix. Do not beat or whip the epoxy. A folding motion combined with stirring and scraping the mixing vessel sides will allow you to thoroughly combine the two parts. Mix time varies by the amount of product mixed. Table top quantities of 64-128 ounces typically require 5-8 minutes. Use a timer.
Do not mix any longer than 8-10 minutes. Over mixing the epoxy will cause it to cure quickly in the mixing cup. The product will get hot and possibly smoke. If you are mixing several batches of epoxy, be sure to use a new, clean container every time.
Pro Tip: If you are new to using epoxy, we recommend starting your mixing process with smaller batches until you get the hang of it. Epoxy is a time sensitive product and needs to be mixed and poured before the epoxy cures. Epoxy cures when the two components are mixed in the correct ratio. The process is an exothermic reaction (gives off heat). We do not advise mixing more than 1 gallon of combined product at a time. If the product is mixed and applied per our directions premature curing can be avoided. The factors that cause premature curing are:
1) The product is over-mixed (Beaten, whipped, drill use)
2) The product is mixed too long
3) The product was allowed to sit in the mixing vessel after mixing.
4) The product was poured too deep. The product is designed for 1/8" thick flood coats with a maximum of 1/4" depth.
What’s happening to cause the issue? When the two parts combine the reaction begins. When pouring the product onto a surface the product can spread and out undergo its reaction as expected. When the product is confined such as in a mixing vessel after it has been mixed the reaction is intensified and will occur in a much faster and concentrated manner. This leads to excessive heat and even smoking. This also happens when poured too deep.
The Seal Coat
A seal coat is a small batch of epoxy that is typically brushed on in a thin layer to seal a porous surface (hardwood, barn wood, knotty wood, etc.). The seal coat minimizes the release of air (bubbles) from the surface into the flood coat. Our epoxy is used for both the seal coat and the flood coat. Do Not use the product over any oil based or unknown coatings.
NOTE: Some very aged and kiln dried porous woods may need multiple seal coats. It is not uncommon for as many as 3 seal coats to be used on aged and kiln dried woods
*If you are pouring the epoxy on a non-porous surface you can skip the seal coat.
To apply a seal coat, start on one end of the table and pour the resin the full length of the surface, zigzagging as you go. Then use a rubber squeegee or a foam brush to drag the resin across the entire surface to achieve an even coat. The epoxy cures rather quickly in the container, so it is necessary to paint the seal coat on quickly or mix up a smaller amount so that it does not cure in the container while you are still working on it.
Once the entire surface is sealed, wait 4-6 hours proceed to the flood coat. If the seal is allowed to cure you must slightly scuff it ( 320 grit) and wipe clean with a drop of denatured alcohol or acetone before flooding.
The Flood Coat
To apply the flood coat, start on one end and pour the resin the entire length of the surface, zigzagging as you go. After you are finished pouring your mix, set the container down. DO NOT SCRAPE ANYTHING OUT OF THE MIXING BUCKET. Because you are pouring about three times the amount of product you did with the seal coat, the material will immediately start to flow out. However, you may still want to use a rubber squeegee or foam brush to help guide the material around. A true flood coat will require minimal manipulation.
The product is designed for 1/8" thick pours but people regularly pour up to 1/4" thick at a time. After 4 hours you can pour another layer directly onto the previous layer. If it has been more than 10 hours the previous layer should be lightly sanded (200-300 grit) and wiped clean with a drop of denatured alcohol or acetone before pouring your next layer.
Edges and drips : The flood coat can be allowed to run over the sides which will create a coating on the vertical edges. These vertical edges will not be as thick as the top surfaces so you must do your best with a brush to keep the material even. Drips will form underneath the bar-rail or edge, these drips can be sanded off once the epoxy has cured. If you catch the epoxy at just the right moment in the curing process cut or scrape the drips off as they will still be soft.
Once you have covered the entire surface with your flood coat, you will begin the process of popping air bubbles. The best tool for removing bubbles is a small propane torch. Hold the flame approximately 6 to 10 inches away from the table top and quickly sweep across the entire surface using a waving motion.
NOTE: it is best to intermittently check the surface for bubbles for up to an hour using your torch (or heat gun) as needed.
After applying your final coat, the product should be kept in a clean, dust-free environment at a minimum of 75-80° F degrees for 72 hours.
The heat resistance once cured is 135 degrees Fahrenheit /57 Celsius. The use of coasters and place mats is recommended to protect table top surfaces and also to reduce heat transfer.